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The Ankara Revolution and the Nigerian Aso-Ebi Culture |
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Written by Esther Onyegbula
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Thursday, 22 May 2008 |
 Frank Oshodi Within a relatively short space of time Ankara has transformed from a low profile poor man's choice to a trendy fabric that can be used to make virtually any clothing piece depending on the creativity of the designer. Frank Osodi CEO House of Bunor, and vice president FADAN, attributes this systematic modification to the Nigerian Aso-ebi culture.
"Traditionally here in Nigeria, every weekend there is a wedding, funeral, birthday, child christening, house warming, you name it. There is always something to celebrate and everybody wants to have a colour code and choice of fabric (aso-ebi)," says Frank.“Ankara is a revolution now, because it is available and cheap. Ankara has 'pushed aside' the Aso-oke and lace. With Ankara which is relatively cheap we are still able to maintain the aso-ebi culture without spending too much”.
 Ankara Design by Frank Oshodi Complaining about the manner in which Ankara is been mutilated all in the name of bringing out its beauty, he explained that “designers should study every fabric before they cut. Not all prints can be mixed or matched with chiffon or organza. You have to make good use of the print the way it is designed, and to do this you study the prints. You look at it the way it is designed and take into consideration the motifs and patterns on it. When working with prints, the imagination of the designer should be at work. You imagine what you can do with a particular print to match a particular design or style. There are some Ankara that allow you to cut out any thing you want but there are some that say no, just position the pattern properly and the best will come out”. “There is so much you can make with Ankara based on the fact tha it is cotton fabric with so many different motifs. Ankara can be used for official wear based on the colours, motifs and pattern on the print. You can make your corporate wears, leisure clothing clothes for church and evening clothes with Ankara," he added. He explained that “when using Ankara to make clothing for office or formal occasions, prints with smaller motifs are perfect." Ankara has its own character naturally, and is more graceful when used the right way. You don’t need to bring out the beauty. It is already there, just arrange what you have to get what you want. Most Ankara are beautifully made. I feel in Nigerians we are beginning to loose it. We are beginning to bastardize the ankara itself. In a bit to make it different some horrible damage is being done to prints. Every print has been designed by designers in the textile factory, who have sat down and produced this fabrics. Some for people who are dark skinned. Others for people who are fair skinned. What we should to do is put the designs to work and not mutilate it. But what we see here most times is a situation where chiffon is wrongly placed on Ankara. Ankara does seem delicate doesn't it? Well, Frank says it depends on the quality of the print. "Most Nigerian print, I would say, are not really that durable and the colours don not last. So mild soaps should be used for washing them, not harsh detergents. Taking them for dry cleaning, really, I don’t think is the best. Ankara is not a facric you can put in the washing machine a long time. They should be washed by hand with soaps that are not harsh on the colours.
Related: Frank Oshodi's House of Bunor
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Last Updated ( Friday, 25 July 2008 )
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